Bali is the most popular island holiday destination in the Indonesian archipelago, but before I visited for the first time, I didn’t know quite what to expect. The visions in my mind’s eye were like multi-sensory scenes from Eat, Pray, Love, accompanied by the sounds of a gamelan, full of modern hippies blissing out on yoga and drunken Aussies in Kuta. While there is some truth in all of these clichés, I learned during my visit that enigmatic Bali is so much more than the sum